reading time: 8 minutes
Salted egg yolks are the most delicious addition to any meal.
Story and pictures Kelly Boehling. I hadn’t even heard of salt-cured egg yolks until last year, when I delved into the cooking demos. While raising quails, I naturally found myself wondering if it was possible to use salted quail egg yolks. Then I was surprised to find that very little information was available on salt-cured quail egg yolks, so after researching methods of salt-curing with chicken eggs, I set out to try a few different approaches and compare the results.
drying
The curing process is basically a drying process. A food item is encapsulated or buried in a curing medium, and this medium draws moisture from the food, often also contributing flavors to the food through the natural curing process or by including herbs or other aromatic substances in the curing medium. Salt is a very popular remedy ingredient, as it does an excellent job of drawing out moisture and naturally preventing the growth of harmful bacteria. It has played a vital role in preserving food throughout the ages, and many brewing traditions also rely on salt for its bacteria-inhibiting properties.
salt and sugar
My guess was that I would use the salt exclusively to treat the yolks. However, while some of the methods I’ve researched use only salt, others use a mixture of salt and sugar in a 1 to 1 ratio. I was surprised to see that sugar was used – and with such a high percentage of salt! I discovered that sugar is used in processing to balance the pungent flavor of pure salt, and to enrich the overall flavor profile. I came at the first crossroads in my egg yolk adventure: I was going to make one batch of quail egg yolks with salt and another with salt and sugar.
I’ve also found that some recipes call for grinding the curing medium in a food processor before using it, which creates a finer, less grainy texture. Others leave the salt or salt and sugar mixture as is. I chose the latter option, using salt and sugar straight from the bag.
basics
There are two main steps in the egg yolk processing process. First, place the yolk in the curing medium, and leave it in the refrigerator for about a week. Second, remove the yolks from the curing medium, then oven dry on low heat or hang in cheesecloth to dry in the refrigerator (an equally cool place). With this information, I decided to split two batches of egg yolks (salt, salt, and sugar) into two: one to bake in the oven, and one to dry in the refrigerator. In total, i had four batches to compare how the methods affected the flavor or consistency of the yolk. To process the yolk, it is important to use a non-reactive dish. (Glass, ceramic, enamel, or stainless steel will all work.)
Yolks nestle in their pots
I used 9″ x 5″ glass loaf pans. The dish should be large enough so that the yolks are evenly distributed without them touching. I aimed for about 1-1/2 inch of space between the yolks. I mixed the curing medium first, and whisked the salt and sugar together until combined. To cure eight quail egg yolks into a 9″ x 5″ loaf pan, I used about 3 cups of curing medium. A quick note on salt: It is important to use only pure salt, without iodine or anti-caking agents, otherwise these additives will weigh down the curing process. As for the sugar, I used unbleached cane sugar, as that’s what I had on hand, but feel free to use regular table sugar.
You can use the processing medium as is, but I gained some empirical insight on this later in the process. After the initial drying phase, I noticed that the yolk inevitably accumulated grit during the curing process, crystallizing into an outer layer covering the surface. I realized that grinding the middle would likely result in a nicer-looking yolk, because the grains on the surface would be smaller, and thus less prominent in flavor when eaten. In the salt batch, the entire crystals contributed a noticeable rancidity, which wasn’t necessarily unpleasant. I think my results would be improved by briefly grinding the curing medium in a food processor. The consistency should not be smooth, but ideally it wouldn’t be made of whole crystals.
Whether you use the curing medium as is, or grind it up in a food processor, pour about half of it into the dish. Shake gently to create an even layer across the bottom, aiming for at least 1 inch of depth. Next, gently press the large end of a clean quail egg into the center, creating small wells where you want the yolk to be. (Remember to keep plenty of space between them.) Once all the wells have been created, it’s time to separate the eggs.
The best fresh eggs
Make sure the eggs are washed and as fresh as possible. Use the float test to select your eggs. You just want the best of the best for this project. Separating the eggs can be a tricky part of the process, but I discovered a helpful technique: holding the egg, make a bound “blow” with a sharp knife to pierce the shell and membrane toward the base end. Using the tip of a knife, spread around in a circle in shallow motions to create a small cap that you can peel off. Pour the egg yolk into the lid. The whites should spill out, and I’ve found it more successful to gently pull at the egg white while it’s suspended, rather than transferring the yolk back and forth between pieces of shell. The fewer transfers from cap to shell, the less likely it is that the yolk will break.
It is important that the yolk remains unbroken, completely intact, and free of white. If the yolk or egg yolk looks unusual, discolored, or has a noticeable odor, discard it. When you have the yolk separated, transfer it to one of the wells in the dish, and repeat until all the wells are full. Sprinkle the curing medium lightly over the egg yolks until completely coated. You shouldn’t be able to see any yellow. (Try again to get at least an inch off the top layer.) This is important, because the curing medium will absorb moisture from the egg yolk, and a generous depth and topping are ideal. Avoid shaking the center to neutralize it at this point, as this may damage or dislodge the yolks. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator for seven days. We just want a nice place for the yolk to cure, so if your fridge tends to freeze items towards the back, like mine, don’t put it too far away. Check the yolk after two days. If you notice any yellow tinge showing through, add more curing medium on top.
drying after processing
After seven days in the refrigerator, it’s time to move on to the next step in the drying process. Upon examining the yolks, I was surprised to find that the yolks in the salt-sugar mixture seemed to have a slightly firmer consistency than those in the salt, although that didn’t have much effect on the final results. Suggested drying times for chicken egg yolks worked well for quail egg yolks, though I expected they might require less curing and drying time. At this point, the yolk won’t be firm, but it will be tacky and a bit firm.
Oven drying
To oven dry, set your oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit and fill a small bowl with cold water. Gently scoop yolks out of the curing medium, shaking off the excess with your fingers. Dip it in the water and then dry it gently with a paper towel. It will appear somewhat transparent (image below). Place on a drying rack lined with a baking sheet, keeping the yolks from touching each other as you repeat this step with all the yolks. Place them in a preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes. The yolk should be firm and no longer translucent. to calm down.
Air dryer, air drying
To air dry, dig in the yolk and gently wipe off the excess. We will not rinse the yolks to air dry them. Cut a piece of cheesecloth with an estimate of about 3 inches for each yolk. I used buttercream, which is a softer fabric, but both will do. Open the fold so there are only two layers of fabric. Lay the yolk, evenly spaced, along the fabric in the center, then fold by bending one side and then the other side lengthwise over the yolk. If the strip of fabric is still much wider than the yolk, roll it into a long “tube”. Using cotton string or cooking twine, tie the fabric at each end and between each yolk. It must not touch any other yolk. Hang them in the refrigerator where they won’t freeze or be disturbed for an additional 7 to 10 days. The yolk is ripe when it feels firm to the touch.
He eats!!
Whichever drying method you choose, the yolks are now ready to eat. Enjoy it grated or thinly sliced ​​over pasta, salads, or soups, or add a fancy ingredient to a charcuterie board! Salted egg yolks are a great alternative to being topped with hard cheese. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator, nested on paper towels, for up to a month.
In the end, I preferred the texture of air-dried egg yolks. It became firm and was easier to grate and chop than the oven-dried yolk, which looked a little gummy. I also appreciated the taste of the egg yolks treated with sugar and salt compared to the taste of the pure salt variety. The sugar helps reduce the saltiness, and also makes for a richer, more complex taste. I’ve tried them on pasta and salad, and really enjoyed the extra flavour. I look forward to continuing to make salted quail egg yolks and trying them in more of my favorite dishes!
Kelly Boehling Born in Lawrence, Kansas. She works as a classical violinist, but between gigs and lessons, she goes out in the garden or spends time with her animals, including quail and French Angora rabbits. Kelly also spins angora fiber from her rabbits into knitting yarn. She enjoys finding ways her animals and her garden can benefit each other for a more sustainable urban home.