There are few cities in all of North America more attractive than Montreal. A blend of urban cosmopolitanism with distinctive neighborhoods, the French-speaking city joy of living. Whether it’s winter, when the city is blanketed in snow, or summer, when the days are long and the grass is green, Montrealers make the most of each day.
The city has a thing for festivals. In winter, Igloofest invites electronic music fans to warm up by dancing the night away, while Fête des Neiges brings families outside to enjoy the crisp, cold sunny days. There are endless festivals in the summer, with at least 30 dedicated to LGBTQ+ pride, cycling, dance, fashion, street art, fireworks, circus, comedy and film, as well as lots of different styles of music, including the granddaddy of them all: Festival Internationale de Jazz de Montreal.
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Even if there aren’t any festivals happening when you visit (if you’re visiting in October or November, don’t miss the Montreal Vegan Festival), the city has a lot to offer. Stroll along the St. Lawrence River waterfront, where a bustling harbor has given way to a floating spa and extensive ice skating rink. In summer, the lock’s still-active system takes boaters through the green parkland, featuring bikers and dog walkers. When you tire of post-industrial natural beauty, head up the mountain old regime Vieux Montreal’s attractions include centuries-old buildings that testify to the city’s rich history as the seat of power in New France.
It’s no surprise that a city brimming with refined sophistication has plenty of vegetarian options leavened with a friendly, inclusive spirit. But Montreal takes it further than most: I have about 40 different vegan restaurants on my short list.
Montreal’s Vegan Evolution
I started with Aux Vivres on Saint Laurent Boulevard, one of two locations. At 26 years old, Aux Vivres is Montreal’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, and it retains that historic 1990s vegan charm. The menu includes old-school staples like bowls, burgers and Indian-inspired dishes. I fell over the Bacon Caesar Bowl, loaded with romaine, capers, shredded carrots and cherry tomatoes topped with delicious coconut bacon, grilled organic tofu and a tangy, creamy Caesar dressing.
Over the past few years, Montreal’s vegan scene has evolved dramatically.
“Man People here are very open-minded,” says Christian Ventura of Montreal’s most prominent vegetarian restaurant. “For the size of the city, there are a lot of vegan places.”
Sushi Momo
When it opened in 2014, Ventura’s flagship Sushi Momo was Canada’s first vegan sushi restaurant. The stylish interior of wood and brick is a perfectly moody backdrop for a date night (make sure you get a reservation in advance), and each plate is a precision-crafted sculpture that redefines what’s culinary-possible. “Sushi is not about fish,” Ventura says “It means vinegared rice. It can be fish, but it can also be vegetables – something that people are neglecting.”
3 The Champions Roll, one of the menu’s most popular, features enoki, oysters and portabello mushrooms with avocado on an upside-down roll finished with a truffle oil emulsion. It is topped with a little sphere Bubu Arre (tiny rice balls made with sesame oil and dark soy sauce), gives a crunchy backbeat to the savory undertones of the rest of the ingredients.
Other spots in Ventura include Bloom Sushi, a simple vegan sushi concept, and the self-explanatory Bvrger.
Montreal’s vegetarian food scene
Vegan dining in Montreal also has a heavy side at places like Mimi and Jones, where chef-owner MJ Guertin serves thick vegan cheeseburgers and a Reuben on toasted rye topped with smoky, thin-sliced house-made seitan and tangy sauerkraut.
“I’m trying to make a difference, because business as usual is unacceptable,” Guertin says passionately as he slides a frosty vegan chocolate milkshake my way; It’s thick, cool, and delicious without being overly sweet—it’s topped with coconut whipped cream, sprinkles, and cherries. “Animals don’t have a voice,” he added. “So I had to open my big mouth and do something about it.”
When Mimi & Jones opened in 2019, it started a revolution. The vegan diner concept has caught fire in Montreal, which has a tradition of heavy, gut-busting fare.
Maynard
At Maynard’s, chef-owner Brody Somerville has adapted the format by emphasizing local organic ingredients: Half the ingredients are sourced on the island of Montreal, and Somerville has banned vegan go-tos like almonds, lemons and avocados because of the climate impact of bringing them to Canada. Maple syrup is the only dessert she cooks.
I sampled a large dish of poutine – the queen of Québécois comfort food that looks like a mound of French fries, cheese curds and gravy and is still as soothing and satisfying as rocking in your mother’s lap. “Poutine is love on a plate,” Somerville says.
His sure hand with the fryer is evident throughout the menu: standouts include pogos (corn dogs), wings made from oyster mushrooms, and my philosophy revelation: Oreos deep-fried in Dr. Pepper butter. They are crispy on the outside, soft and warm on the inside, with a sweetness and aroma that can bring you to your knees.
SWIRL
If you visit in the warmer months, don’t miss nearby SWIRL (not far from the all-vegan Chez Jack Pizzeria). Whirlpool, which is open seasonally (closed in winter, coming in spring and fall), has created a perfectly satiny soft serve with an organic coconut milk base. The flavor changes every two weeks as different local fruits come into season. A swirl of creamy vanilla with the cool fruit and citrus tang of blueberry yuzu is heaven in the summer sun.
A proper gastronomic experience
Montreal has become an incubator for vegan chains. There are six outposts of Copper Branch, a vegan restaurant franchise that started here and now has about 40 locations across Canada. And both Guertin and Ventura have opened new restaurants (Jones Cafe and Bloom, respectively) designed to replicate them.
With not much time left in my trip, will my last meal in Montreal be at the faux-meat-heavy vegetarian Thai restaurant Chuchai? Or a branch of the casual bistro Lola Rosa? Perhaps another casual bistro in one of the LOV branches? How about the Mediterranean in one of the Green Panther locations? Eating heavier but trendy at Burger Fiancé? Or continue with Ohana Sushi or Umami Ramen and Vegan Japanese at Izakaya?
Bistro Tenderness
I decided it was time to get fancy. Bistro Tendrese on Rue Sainte-Catherine Est is a bright, elegant space in the heart of Gay Village—Montreal’s most happening LGBTQ+ neighborhood. Owner Catherine Saint-Cyr opened Tendres four years ago to explore the city’s vegan options. “What was missing for me was a place to drink good wine and have a proper gastronomic experience as a vegetarian,” she says.
Food at Tendresse is a feast of carefully crafted dishes of well-executed vegan gastronomy. Rounds of king oysters prepared in a calamari style—a light rice flour batter, a wedge of lemon and herb aioli—were tender and crispy with toothsome meat that almost made me want to stop there and eat order after order.
Tendres’ creativity was on full display with its delicious waffles. Dressed with roasted mushrooms, radish slaw, maple truffle mayo, balsamic reduction and fresh herbs, this dish has a unified and interesting personality despite the unusual combination of ingredients. Similarly, the Edamame Falafel and Shaved Fennel Salad, with small balls of crispy but light falafel atop fennel ribbons, combine different ingredients to create a cohesive, delicious experience.
I left with the perfect food buzz (okay, there was wine involved) for a stroll through the lively night streets, reflecting the quality of the vegan food here. I think what Maynard’s Brody Somerville said perfectly sums up Montreal’s impeccable dining scene: “The most important ingredient in food is love.”