Most cookbooks have chapters that are not for me as I don’t eat red meat. I like to read cookbooks to the end to see what new things I learn, but I end up not using meat recipes unless there’s a sauce I reuse with a different protein. It’s a very different experience when I read a cookbook that’s about fish. I received a review copy Foolproof Fish: Modern recipes for everyone, everywhere
from America’s Test Kitchen and quickly fell in love with this book full of recipes I wanted to try. As is always the case with America’s Test Kitchen, you can be assured that every technique in every recipe has been studied to find the best process for each dish. There are instructions for everything from removing bones and skin to how to properly turn delicate fillets in the pan. Each recipe begins with a description “Why this recipe works”. One of the first recipes in the book, the miso-marinated salmon, caught my eye because the “why it works” description explained how the miso would heal the salmon if you marinated it long enough. I also realized that other miso salmon recipes I’ve used in the past have never recommended scraping the marinade off the fish before cooking. I immediately realized what a better approach this is. After sufficient marinating time, the salmon will have absorbed the flavor and the excess ingredients will be too thick for a nicely varnished finish. And then I just wanted to do everything as I turned the pages of the book. Baked halibut with cherry tomatoes and chickpeas and Israeli couscous with clams, leeks and tomatoes are two examples of quick one-pot meals, but there are several. I loved the idea of ​​poaching cod fillets in a Thai-inspired coconut broth with lemongrass and ginger. There’s also a hot and sour shrimp and rice vermicelli soup that sounds delicious. Classics like lobster rolls, shrimp po’ boy, gumbo, crab cakes and clam chowder abound. I got distracted by the Peruvian ceviche with oranges and radishes, but then started cooking from the book, making the shrimp burgers with classic tartar sauce before getting down to making the anchovy dip.
When I announced I was making anchovy dip, Kurt was unsure. He likes anchovies; he just wasn’t sure if making a bath out of it would be a good idea. I, on the other hand, knew it was going to be good. I had the gall to make a few small changes to the recipe despite the testing it had already gone through. The recipe calls for blanched almonds, but I used raw cashews because I had them on hand. And I left out the suggested raisins for sweetness. To start, the nuts were boiled for about 20 minutes until tender, and then they were drained and rinsed. The nuts were mashed in a food processor along with anchovies, which I soaked and drained, and water, lemon juice, lemon zest, fresh garlic, Dijon mustard, pepper and a pinch of salt until smooth. To match the dip, I went back to one of my favorite ways to make chips. I’ve been slow baking thin slices of sweet potatoes and Yukon gilded potatoes.
By pairing the anchovy dip with homemade baked potato chips, the snack became fish and chips. And the dip was a smooth, savory treat. It was like bagna cauda made thick with the cashew puree. The anchovies gave it a lot of great flavor that wasn’t overpowering at all. Whether you’re looking for the best approach to preparing your favorite seafood dishes at home or something new and different, this book has you covered.
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