Marcus Samuelsson’s latest book, The Rise: Black Chefs and the Soul of American Food, is best summed up as “an invitation to a listening party to which all are welcome – a celebration to discover the breadth, depth and diversity of black chefs”. I recently received a review copy. It’s a collection of recipes inspired by the work of African American chefs, food lovers, and writers. Because “the contributions of Black people in this country have always been underdocumented and underappreciated,” this book sheds light on some of the food industry’s inspiring work in the quest for social change. The chapters are organized thematically as they relate to the highlighted people in the food industry. And after an introduction to each one, there are recipes that delve into that person’s history or current work. The first chapter is “Next” and contains stories about innovative work, showing what is possible and what is to come. Of course, I was pleased to see Austin’s Emmer and Rye pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph here, and the recipes that follow his story are based on flavors from Guyana, where he was born. There’s fried coconut chicken with sweet hot sauce and platanos and smoked venison with roti and pine nut chutney. And what’s so interesting throughout the book is the variety of dishes. After the venison, find Quick Salted Salmon with Carrot Broth and Mushrooms in honor of Adrienne Cheatham’s elegance and grace. She worked at Le Bernardin and was also Executive Chef for Samuelsson at the Red Rooster. I’m always drawn to Cheryl Day’s sweet creations and some of the recipes she’s inspired here include Baobab Buttermilk and Roasted Peach Popsicles and Sweet and Wild Berry Cake with C&C Crumble, which is a blend of cassava flour and coconut contains. The seafood recipes also always caught my attention. I craved grilled piri piri shrimp with papaya and watermelon salad, chitarra noodles with crab and chile, and scallops with citrus and hibiscus tea. And that seafood craving led me to the Corn and Crab Beignets with Yaji Aioli.
These savory beignets were inspired by BJ Dennis of Charleston, South Carolina, where he works to preserve and celebrate the food of the Gullah Geechee culture. His cuisine and exploration of ingredients prepared and grown by descendants of West Africa draws attention to dishes that are “produce and seafood driven, rich and full of deep flavor.” I was able to buy some nice jumbo crab meat at a nearby fish market. But since corn is not yet in season, I opted for frozen. Preparing the beignet batter is a fairly simple process of stirring everything together, and frying it is quick and easy once you’re all set. I use a paper grocery bag that has been cut open and folded in half on a baking sheet as a resting place for whatever is being fried. Use a pan that has plenty of room and allow enough time for the oil to come up to temperature. Then the roasting in batches goes on in a flash. For the aioli, I first made the Yaji seasoning mix with roasted peanuts, ground ginger, salt, paprika, garlic and onion powder, and cayenne pepper. The peanuts were ground in a small food processor until finely chopped. The spices have been added and processed to combine. This mixture should stay dry and not turn into peanut butter. A generous tablespoon of this spice blend was added to about a cup of aioli.
Crunchy beignets were a decadent treat, and the rich, flavorful aioli contrasted perfectly with the texture. Luckily we had some leftovers and they reheat well in the oven. There is so much more to discover in this book. From Fonio-Stuffed Collards with Pepper Sambal and Sauce Moyo to Montego Bay Rum Cake, I’ll savor the journey from one page to the next.
Corn and Crab Fries with Yaji Aioli
BJ Dennis grew up in Charleston picking okra and fishing in the creeks for shrimp and crab. The crab fritters here are paired with an aioli made with yaji, the hugely popular West African spice mix.
MAKES APPROX. 24 BEIGNETS
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 cups fresh corn kernels (from 2 heads)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cornmeal
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 large egg
8 ounces lump crab meat
vegetable oil for frying
Yaji spice aioli
Melt the butter in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and cook until slightly tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Place in a large mixing bowl, stir in the chives and allow to cool.
In a separate bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, cayenne pepper, and salt. Add the buttermilk and egg to the corn and mix. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine. Add the crab meat and fold in.
Heat 1 1/2 inches of oil in a large saucepan or deep fryer to 375°F. Place a paper towel-lined cooling rack in a baking sheet and set aside.
Using a tablespoon or 1/2-ounce scoop, carefully add 4 or 5 scoops of batter to the oil. (Work in batches to avoid overfilling the fritters with the oil.) Fry, turning frequently, until fritters are golden brown and cooked through in the center, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the cooked beignets to the prepared cooling rack to drain and cool slightly.
Serve warm with aioli for dipping.
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